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The Rise of Koji: Chefs and Bartenders Unite Behind the Fungus that Transforms Food

Strategic Insights

— 1 min read

Chefs and bartenders are discovering the versatility of koji, a type of mold used in Japanese cuisine for centuries, and finding new uses for it in everything from cured meats and pickled onions to cocktails. From curing pastrami to fermenting black beans, koji is being used to enhance flavors and textures, while also adding a unique umami taste. Meanwhile, bartenders are experimenting with koji in non-alcoholic and alcohols-based drinks, infusing rum with shio koji and using it as a seasoning in cocktails.

Key Takeaways:

  • Koji, a type of mold used in Japanese cuisine, is being used by chefs and bartenders to enhance flavors and textures in a variety of dishes and drinks.
  • Chefs are using koji to cure pastrami, ferment black beans, and make a seasoning called Special K, which is used to sprinkle over salads and fries.
  • Bartenders are experimenting with koji in non-alcoholic and alcohols-based drinks, including infusing rum with shio koji and using it as a seasoning in cocktails.
  • The use of koji in cooking and bartending is being driven by its unique umami taste, which enhances the flavors of other ingredients.
  • Koji is also being used to create unique textures, such as a fluffy cloud of koji used to garnish the Fleming cocktail at Paradiso in Barcelona.
  • Jeremy Umansky, the owner of Larder deli in Cleveland, uses koji for almost everything, including curing pastrami and making Special K seasoning.
  • Zach Hornberger, the bar manager at Nancy's Hustle in Houston, adds koji to the non-alcoholic Silver Brining cocktail to bring a umami background to the drink.
  • Fabrice McCarthy, the bar manager at Fête in Honolulu, infuses rum with shio koji and shakes it into a mai tai to add salinity.

Statistics:

  • Koji has been used in Japanese cuisine for centuries.
  • 41-year-old Jeremy Umansky uses koji for almost everything at Larder deli in Cleveland.
  • The bar manager at Nancy's Hustle in Houston, 32-year-old Zach Hornberger, adds koji to the non-alcoholic Silver Brining cocktail.
  • 41-year-old Fabrice McCarthy infuses rum with shio koji and shakes it into a mai tai at Fête in Honolulu.

Sources:

  • Martha Cheng, The New York Times
  • Peter Larson, "Koji Alchemy" (Chelsea Green publishing, 2020)
  • Nancy Hass, The New York Times
  • Gisela Williams, The New York Times

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